The Concequences of Being a Terrible Navigator + Art History Blog #2

My first days in Rome were spent struggling through the language barrier and getting repeatedly, hopelessly lost. I know I will look back on those sorts of memories fondly in the future (in fact, I already do), but while struggling to find my way to this and that the frustration is nearly unbearable. On my third day in Rome, while attempting to get to class on time, my roommate and I found ourselves so lost and confused I nearly threw myself off a bridge and into the pee-smelling Tiber river. I cursed the cobblestone roads for the agony they have inflicted upon my feet and damned the sun for the sunburns and blistering heat rashes spreading up my hands and feet. I even swore to find whoever this alleged Michelin is and murder him for creating such an illegible map. And just when I thought things couldn’t get any worse, a seagull casually shit on my shoulder, spreading hot, green poo all down my white shirt. Lovely! And if that wasn’t the lovliest icing on the cake, my poor navigation skills made me so late my group had left me behind, lost and confused in a bustling marketplace. The trudging march back to my apartment was one of anger and humiliation at my obvious inadequacy as a traveler. Finally able to reconnect with the group, my suffering roommate and I caved in and took at taxi to meet our classmates, only to discover the Basilica of San Clemente was closed, for no apparent reason (a surprisingly common occurance in Rome) and we were forced to board the sweaty, crowded public bus back to apartment only to return to San Clemente two hours later.

Despite the trials and tribulations of my rather unfortunate morning, San Clemente was well worth the struggle. Not only was it cool and dark, but exquisitely decorated without crossing into gaudy territory. The Basilica, now Irish Catholic since the 19^th century, is made up of three levels built atop each other. Each layer would borrow pieces from the previous structure to enhance the new one. The lowest level was once the ground level of 1st century Rome. It includes a number of rooms of questionable purposes which were likely parts of a private home, warehouse or shop. Also included in the lowest level is a ritual space for the mystery cult of Mithras which includes a sacrificial altar. As the Roman Empire progressed toward Christianity, the importance of private ritual is emphasized.

Because the original site was home to early Christians, the site was considered holy and a church was built atop the ruins of the previous structure during the 5^th century. This middle level includes fragments of the previous structure as well as other bits and pieces from other early Christian churches. Dedicated to Saint Clement, the patron saint of sailors, 11^th century Byzantine frescoes of this level depict scenes from life of Saint Clement including many nautical themed images.

The top level which stands at street level in includes many of the common architectural features of early Christian churches in Rome including aisles, naves and an apse. Also included is a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine with frescoes by Masolino. These frescoes emphasize the increasing naturalism in Roman painting prior to the Renaissance yet still appear sculptural and somewhat awkward in comparison.

Although photography was not allowed in San Clemente, I have included some stock photos of the 2^nd basilica and its mosaics for illustration.